You can easily figure out a bar manager’s secret passion. All you have to do is take a close look at the bottles behind his or her bar. No matter how diverse the selection, there is almost always a collection of spirits that are a bit out of place. Perhaps, it’s an oddly robust group of amaro or a carefully curated collection of vintage Chartreuse.
I’m, of course, guilty of this behavior, too. For me it is apple brandy, a spirit that every autumn seems to almost breakthrough to the mainstream, only to be misunderstood and tossed back into the pile of other seasonal offerings, like so many fallen leaves.
Bourbon may have been named America’s native spirit by Congress but apple brandy was drunk even earlier in the colonies. During cold New England winters, colonists would leave hard cider outside overnight allowing it to freeze. In the morning, they would throw away the ice. Since alcohol doesn’t freeze, what was left over after this rudimentary distilling, or “jacking,” process was a more concentrated alcoholic apple beverage.
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