First morels we have found in 2018!  

While following a baby beaver we came across a bed of these wonderful mushrooms under this tree!!

SETTING THE FLAVOR OF MORELS FREE
TODAY’S LESSON: Nothing is as delicious as fresh morel mushrooms sauteed in sweet butter but how can you enjoy the flavor without all the fat? The trick is in the technique and we’ll show you a couple of methods to bring out that special morel taste.
WHY IT TASTES SO GOOD: Mushrooms are mostly water which contains almost all of the distinct flavor profile. Cooking techniques which concentrate these juices will intensify the flavor of the morel. Besides the direct mushroom taste, the use of high heat during cooking will caramelize the natural sugars to produce that wonderful, deep-toasted flavor. The overall combination of these two flavors produces that incredibly rich morel mushroom flavor.
ADVANTAGES: Cooking with low or no fat obviously has its health advantages but also allows the subtle flavor of the mushrooms to come forward no longer covered by the taste of heavy fat. Morels are low in calories with lots of fiber, some vitamins, minerals and, most importantly, that great taste.
HOW TO SELECT PERFECT MORELS: Wild morels can be a number of different species which will result in slight variations of flavor and texture. Select the best by freshness as noted by full, shriveled stems. The texture should be supple, never dry or soggy. Avoid crumbly paper-like mushrooms which will disintegrate when cooked. Store in a paper bag with a few holes poked in it for ventilation, in the coldest part of the refrigerator. Use within a few days to enjoy them at their peak.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE: Mushrooms are like sponges. Clean the mushrooms by trimming the stems, then brushing away the dirt with a stiff, small brush, such as a toothbrush. If they are dirtier, rinse well under slowly running cold water, one by one, and immediately drain in a colander. NEVER soak or submerge in water. Dry in a lettuce spinner or on paper toweling well. The trick to concentrated mushroom flavor and cooking without steaming is to keep the mushrooms dry.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE:

GRILLED MORELS WITH GARLIC, CHIVES, AND BALSAMIC
Makes 4 appetizer servings of 6 grams carbohydrates,
1 grams of protein and 1 grams fiber
Prep Time 5 minutes – Cook Time 10 minutes
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (C=0g)
4 cloves of garlic, minced fine (C=4g)
1 pounds of cleaned morel mushrooms, stems removed if woody
(C=10g)(P=4g)(F=4g)
Sea salt (C=0g)
freshly ground black pepper (C=1g)
1/4 cup flat parsley leaves (C=1g)
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives (C=1g)
1 finely grated rind of one lemon (C=2g)
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar (C=1g)
2 tablespoons white truffle oil (C=0g) OPTIONAL
1/4 cup paper thin shaved Parmesan cheese (C=4g)
4 sprigs of chives or parsley for garnish (C=0g)
Preheat the grill.
In a medium bowl combine olive oil and garlic. Add the mushrooms tossing to coat. Season with salt and a generous dose of black pepper mixing well to combine.
Transfer the morels to the grill and spread evenly to ensure consistent cooking. Cook until well seared, about 3 minutes. Turn the mushrooms over with a metal spatula or tongs, cooking until tender about 3 minutes. Transfer the mushrooms with a spatula back to the bowl.
Add the parsley, chives and lemon rind to the mushrooms and toss to combine. Drizzle the mushrooms with the balsamic vinegar and optional truffle oil while tossing Adjust the seasonings as necessary. Add the shaved Parmesan while tossing.
Divide the mushrooms to the center of the serving plate. Garnish with a sprig of chives or parsley.

COOKING NOTE I: (C=0g)(P=0g)(F=0g)indicates the total carbohydrates, total protein & total fiber in grams for the ingredient listed.
© Jimmy Schmidt

The precious commodity that drives Michoacán’s economy and feeds an American obsession is not marijuana or methamphetamines but avocados, which local residents have taken to calling “green gold.” Mexico produces more of the fruit than any country in the world — about a third of the global total — and most of its crop is grown in the rich volcanic soil of Michoacán, upland from the beaches of Acapulco. It is one of the miracles of modern trade that in 2017, Mexico’s most violent year on record, this cartel-riddled state exported more than 1.7 billion pounds of Haas avocados to the United States, helping them surpass bananas as America’s most valuable fruit import. Nine out of every 10 imported avocados in the United States come from Michoacán.

Read More

By Brook Larmer

WHAT EXACTLY IS A CROWN ROAST OF LAMB? The crown roast is actually two racks of lamb curved to form a circle with the bones rising upwards, looking almost like a crown when completed and, hence, its title.

WHY LAMB FOR THE HOLIDAYS? The typical ham that has been done on Easter or the standard roast ribs of beef are delicious but a little basic, while lamb is just extra special.

LAMB IN HISTORY: No meat animal has had as long and profound an associations with civilized people as sheep and their offsprings. Curly-horned wild sheep called mouflons, whose descendants still exist on Sardinia and Corsica, were domesticated tens of thousands of years ago in what is now Kurdistan. This long association has nourished civilizations for all of our history and is a perfect match for this special time of year.

ISN’T LAMB STRONGER IN FLAVOR THAN OTHER MEATS? Lamb is technically under 12 months of age often harvested AT 6 TO 9 months of age when it is even milder and more tender. Lamb older than a year is called mutton and is much more pronounced in flavor, primarily from the mature fat content. Throughout its growth, lamb produces none of the fat marbling that is common in prime beef. The fat occurs in lamb around the meaty muscles and in mature animals between the muscles. The fat may be easily trimmed away before cooking.

HOW TO SELECT YOUR LAMB: The best grades of lamb are prime and choice. Prime has the higher fat content, most of which will be trimmed away. Choose prime, if cost is no object, or choice, if you prefer to spend that extra money on your holiday bottle of vino. Select light red meat from more flexible pink bones which depicts a younger animal. Avoid mature lamb with dark red meat and yellowish fat from whitish bones. The diameter of the “eye” of the meat on the rack should be about 1-1/2 inches to 2 inches across. The lamb should be moist but never slimy. Select two racks of lamb, 8 to 9 bones each, of equal size and weight for even cooking.

TRIM YOUR LAMB, OR HAVE YOUR BUTCHER DO IT: Trim the fat and connective tissue covering the meaty loin. “French” the bones which is trimming the meat from between the rib bones down to where the loin attaches onto the bones, scraping the bones clean with the blade of the knife. Repeat with the second rack. Take the trimming and remove the meaty sections for stock and sauces. Discard the fat.

FORM THE CROWN: Take a large can about 5 to 6 inches in diameter, placing it in the center of your roasting pan rack. Arch the two racks of lamb, meat side out, around the can until the ends of the two racks touch each other. Wrap butchers twine around the racks just above the meat line to secure the meat in the “crown” circular shape. Remove the can carefully so that the lamb stays securely in place. Season the lamb well.

THE COOKING BEGINS: Start roasting in a preheated oven at 400 degrees F. to develop the rich, robust meat flavor. Continue at this temperature for rare and medium rare meat. Turn down the temperature to 350 degrees F if you prefer your meats medium or more done. Test the roast with a small instant- style meat thermometer to detect your preferred degree of doneness.

GIVE THE LAMB A REST: Allow the roast to rest about 5 minutes before serving. This lets the juices settle down before carving. Cutting the lamb without resting allows the juices which have been trapping in the lamb during the cooking to quickly escape.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS: As long as the oven is on, roast some seasonal vegetables such as fennel bulb, artichokes and your other spring favorites. Choose colorful vegetables and shapes that when done may be presented in the center of your “crown” of lamb. Roasting is simple by splashing with a little olive oil and seasonings, letting the hot even do the rest until they are tender. Cover with foil if they begin to brown too much.

HERBS THE WORD: Don’t forget a little fresh rosemary or thyme which is the perfect flavor match. Select two racks of lamb, 8 to 9 bones each, of equal size and weight for even cooking. Garlic is the natural flavor for lamb so be generous. I can just smell all the wonderful holiday aromas coming from your kitchen.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE: Try this little basic twist on a Crown Roast of Lamb and you will start a new Easter tradition.

EASTER CROWN ROAST RACK OF LAMB WITH ASPARAGUS
Makes 4 generous servings

2 racks of lamb, about 8 to 9 bones each, trimmed of the fat covering and the bones
“Frenched” or trimmed to the meat loin
1 tablespoon minced garlic
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
12 large garlic cloves
20 jumbo asparagus spears, coarse lower third trimmed
1 cups light vegetable or poultry stock
2 cups dry red wine
1/4 cup chopped mint
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives
1 bunch of mint for garnish

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees F.

Take a large can about 5 to 6 inches in diameter, placing it in the center of your roasting pan rack. Arch the two trimmed racks of lamb, meat side out, around the can until the ends of the two racks touch each other. Wrap butchers twine neatly around the racks just about the meat line to secure the meat in the “crown” circular shape. Remove the can carefully so that the lamb stays securely in place. Rub the meat of the lamb with the minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Drizzle a couple of drops of olive oil on the lamb meat and rub evenly across the surface to adhere the garlic and spices. Sprinkle the chopped rosemary over the lamb.

Place the roasting pan on a rack on the middle of the oven. Cook at 400 degrees for about 10 minutes to sear. Continue cooking at this temperature for rare and medium rare meat or turn down the temperature to 350 degrees F if you prefer your meats medium or more done. Test the roast with a small instant style meat thermometer to detect your preferred degree of doneness after about 25 to 35 minutes depending on the size of your lamb. Remove and allow to rest in a warm spot.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl combine the garlic cloves with a splash of olive oil just to coat. Season with salt and pepper. Combine with the asparagus to coat.  Transfer to a baking dish, placing the baking dish in preheated oven at 400 degrees F. on a lower rack under the lamb. Cook until tender and slightly browned and tender, about 20 minutes, reserving in a warm place.

While all this roasting is going on, in a medium saucepan combine the stock and the wine. Bring to a boil over high heat and cook until reduced to coat the back of a spoon, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat.

To serve: Return the sauce to the heat and bring to a simmer over medium high heat. Season with salt and pepper to your taste. Remove from the heat, stir in the mint and chives and transfer to a serving boat keeping warm.

Meanwhile, return the lamb and asparagus to the oven until hot, probably about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven. With a couple of metal spatulas, carefully transfer the crown roast to the center of your serving platter. Arrange the roasted asparagus into the center of the crown sticking upwards in celebration. Stick the sprigs of mint in the center of the crown for garnish. Serve with the sauce drizzled over or on the side.

Jimmy Schmidt

TODAY’S LESSON: As the sun begins to warm the lakes and oceans, little fish celebrate the return of Spring abounding near shore to launch the cycle of life once again. When the lake smelt starts to “run” they are at their best of the year, hearty from the cold winter waters, intertwining sweet and savory in one crunchy bite. Today we will learn the tricks to perfect the technique of fish frying.

WHAT ARE SMELT AND WHITEBAIT? Smelt are a family of tiny fish calling home the Great Lakes, Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. There a number of related species members of the Osmeridae family, some of which are protected from harvest.  Whitebait are immature tiny fish of larger ocean species such as herring, sprat, mackerel, sardines and bass, usually fried whole.

THEY ARE SO LITTLE AND HOW DO YOU CATCH THEM? When water temperatures warm to 40 to 42 degrees F., the smelt become very active in shallow lake and river waters. The fish are located at night using flashlights then “dipped” with a nylon or fine wire net to harvest. On the Atlantic coasts Spring signals the Smelt and other small fish to run up the local estuaries where they are easily netted. The larger fish are cleaned of head, fins, and belly while the tiny ones may be simply gutted.

GOT TO FLASH FRY TO CAPTURE THE GOODNESS! Although fried foods generally have a bad reputation of being heavy, greasy foods, crispy frying done properly produces the most delicate crunchy fish while preserving all the flavorful moist meat, like a savory French fry!

WHY THEY TASTES SO GOOD: The second you plunge the little fish into the hot oil the high
temperature coagulates the exterior skin to form a seal to trap in moisture and flavor; thoroughly cooking in just a couple of minutes to capture all of the delicate characteristics and nutritional elements. The high temperature sears the surface and little fat will be absorbed during the cooking process if the oil is the correct high temperature.

SELECT YOUR FISH: Whole cleaned Smelt or Whitebait are my choice for spring. Select whole cleaned smelt which have a bright shiny, almost wet looking skin and smell sweet just like watermelon. If you prefer, select small fish filets which are almost translucent and dense in texture, never white and mushy. You can trim the belly flap and remove the skin if you prefer or just fry au natural. They should never feel slimy or smell fishy. The freshest quality is essential for the cooked flavor and texture.

THE SECRET SEASONED FLOUR: The simplest frying method calls to dredge the fish through a egg-milk wash, drain, and dust with a seasoned flour. The egg wash helps the flour adhere evenly to the fish and provide a complete coating when cooked.

The secret to our flour is more than just seasonings, it’s the combination of the Sorghum flour (higher protein, lower carb, gluten-lectin free) and Flaxseed meal(high fiber, Omegas). This secret flour also does not absorb as much liquid from the egg wash or the moisture exiting the fish during cooking, creating a perfect crunchy yet still delicate crust. The seasoned flour also allows more of the fish’s flavor and texture to show through. The flour itself should contain the usual seasonings of salt and pepper but is enhanced with paprika, and ground spices such as fennel seed, cumin or dill seed for a delicate accent.

NOT ALL OILS ARE MADE EQUAL: Select one of the following oils that will stand up to the temperatures of frying. These are good nutrient rich, healthy oils that have the best flavor for simple fried foods. Select naturally refined oils as the benefits of the virgin oils will be burned up by the higher frying temperatures.
Olive oil
Avocado oil
Coconut oil
Red Palm Fruit oil – the natural red carotene color will transfer to your fried goods!

AVOID USING – Most traditional oils such as corn, canola, soybean and grain oils which contain lectins and other less nutritional components.

ADVANTAGES: Flash frying with nutritionally aligned flours and oils delivers crispy delicious protein without unnecessary carbohydrates, glutens and lectins.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: The best trick to frying is temperature. Make sure the oil is the proper temperature before attempting to cook. If you are serving a large party, have a number of skillets or fryers on the fire so all the fish may be cooked and presented quickly. Never overload the fryers, since the cold fish will cause the oil temperature to drop
resulting in soggy food.

One more tip, add the salt and pepper to the egg wash to prevent transferring from the flour into the oil which accelerate its breaking down.

THE COOKING BEGINS: Dredge your fish through the egg wash and allow to drain. Add the fish individually into the seasoned flour while shaking to coat all the surfaces evenly and prevent them from sticking together in a giant ball. Shake in a coarse sieve to remove all excess flour.

COOKING: Carefully submerge into the hot oil and cook until they begin to hiss, about 2 to 2-1/2 minutes for smelt and a little longer for larger fish. The hissing sound means they are releasing their juices and are done. Remove them to paper toweling to drain. Garnish and serve immediately on a warm platter.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS: The standard green herbed tartar sauce is tradition but lets put a twist on it…… or even just a squirt of lemon and some crispy parsley.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE: Smelt are running great so try this simple healthy twist on the classic.

Crispy Flash Fried Smelt with Parsley, Meyer Lemon and Vidalia Sweet Onion Tartar
Makes 4 servings

Olive or other healthy oil for frying

1 bunch flat parsley leaves, washed and dried well

1 cup Sorghum flour
1 cup fine flaxseed meal
2 tablespoons smoked sweet paprika
1 tablespoon ground fennel seed

2 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 cups low or no-fat milk
2 teaspoon sea salt, fine
1 teaspoon ground white pepper or ground chipotle pepper

2 pounds cleaned small smelts

sea salt and pepper for post frying seasoning
2 lemons for garnish, cut into 1/8th wedges

Fill a large, deep, skillet with oil to a depth of 4 inches. Heat over medium high heat to 360 degrees F.

Add the parsley leaves and cook until crisp and bubbling has receded, about 1 to 2 minutes. Remove to paper toweling to drain. Run a dry, fine, small sieve through the oil to remove any remaining herb particles.

In a large bowl sift together the flour, flaxseed meal, paprika, and fennel.

In a medium bowl combine the eggs, salt, pepper and milk.

Working quickly, dredge the smelt in the egg and milk wash to thoroughly coat, then remove from the wash to drain off the excess. Transfer the smelt in small batches to the seasoned flour and shake to coat as they fall into the mix. Shake well to evenly coat all the surfaces of the smelt. Transfer the smelt to a metal cooking basket, coarse sieve or rack to remove all excess flour.

Slip the smelt into the hot oil, stirring occasionally, and fry until evenly golden, about 2 to 3 minutes depending on the size of the fish and the volume of oil. Remove the smelt to paper toweling to drain momentarily. Season with salt and pepper. Artistically stack in the center of a warm large serving platter. Garnish with crisp parsley atop, lemon wedges around and the accompanying sauce.

MEYER LEMON AND SWEET VIDALIA ONION TARTAR
Makes 2-1/2 cups

1-1/2 cup fresh avocado mayonnaise (or other healthy oil)
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup fresh Meyer lemon juice
1 Meyer lemon rind grated fine
1/4 cup finely diced Vidalia Onion (brunoise 1/8″ by 1/8″)
1/4 cup capers minced
1/4 cup finely diced red pepper
1 tablespoon snipped fresh chives
1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Tabasco to taste

In a bowl or with a food processor combine all the ingredients, pulsing to combine. Reserve under refrigeration.

Jimmy Schmidt

TODAY’S LESSON: In our not too distant past, the first harvest emerging as the snow melted was wild watercress foraged from brisk running forest streams. It was a refreshing, nutrient-rich, ingredient in salads and creatively captured in sauces or even sautéed until wilted like spinach. Today we will unleash its peppery flavor into a beautiful sauce with the richness of the emerging Spring salmon.

WHAT EXACTLY IS WATERCRESS? Watercress is a rapidly growing aquatic and semi-aquatic perennial herb with bushy, rounded dark green leaves and succulent hollow stems, botanically named Nasturtium officinale-aquaticum. Watercress has a pungent, peppery, mustardy, and slightly bitter flavor. Commonly watercress is used as a garnish for soups, salads, and sandwiches.

WHERE DOES WATERCRESS COME FROM? Watercress is native to Europe and America and also can be found growing throughout the United States, and Canada. It is one of the oldest known leaf plants consumed by humans. Watercress can be found growing in shallow, slow-moving creeks, streams and springs in the wild.

There are potential drawbacks from consuming the tender young watercress found in these “wild” locations as impurities or pollutants in the water are transferred to the plant itself and ingested upon consumption.

Commercially grown watercress is typically grown in soil rather than water. Only the roots are kept saturated and fed nutrients that will produce a crop every six weeks in winter and every three weeks in summer. Hydroponics, the means of growing plants on water, is also perfect for the production of watercress. The plants are fed nutrients through the water under controlled conditions. Additionally, the water is carefully monitored to control levels of bacteria and other impurities.

ADVANTAGES: Watercress leaves provide great flavor and are high in vitamin A, calcium and potassium.

SELECTING YOUR WATERCRESS: Select your source carefully and treat raw wild watercress by soaking it in Halazone tablets (available at most drug stores) to kill bacteria before eating. For commercial watercress, select deep green leaves on crisp, slender stems. Watercress deteriorates quickly so be picky. Avoid wilted, browning or yellowish leaves. Refrigerate watercress in a plastic bag, but use it immediately. If you plan to store it longer than a day, cover it with damp paper towels and stick the stems in a few ice cubes before refrigerating. Drain the water daily and refresh with more ice. The watercress should last for three or four days using this technique.

PREPARING YOUR WATERCRESS: Watercress is one of the easiest of the family of greens to prepare after washing. Simply twist off the lower third of the stem ends. The stems are edible but a little coarse compared to those tender delicate leaves.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: For easy chopping, use the stems as a handle. Hold the lower, coarser third of the stem and cut the remaining prime leaves and stems with your knife. Remember, when cooking, add the watercress at the last second so it just wilts, to capture the spicy flavor.

OUR SAUCE BEGINS: Start by sautéing shallots in a little butter over medium heat. As they become tender add the white wine, cooking until reduced by half the original volume. Add the heavy cream, returning to a simmer. Cook until the sauce has reduced to coat the back of a spoon. Transfer the sauce to a blender. Add the watercress. Carefully puree until smooth in a blender(see note in recipe). Transfer to a fine sieve to strain into another saucepan. Season as necessary. Keep warm it is ready to serve.

MIX AND MATCH: You can spunk up the basic sauce with a handful of capers, a few chiles and even a boost of grained mustard for additional kick.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE: Try my favorite dish of the Spring season, Roasted Salmon with Watercress-Pinot Gris Sauce.

PAN ROASTED SALMON WITH WATERCRESS-PINOT GRIS SAUCE
Makes 4 servings

4 filets of salmon, skin on about 6 ounces each (skin optional)
sea salt, prefer pink
freshly ground black pepper
olive oil or red palm fruit oil
2 tablespoons shallots, minced
4 bunches of watercress, for sautéing
1 recipe Watercress-Pinot Gris Sauce (recipe follows)
1 bunch of watercress, lower stems removed tops picked into little sprigs for garnish

Preheat your oven to 425 degrees F.

In a large skillet, heat over high heat until hot. Rub a few drops of oil on the skin of the salmon, then place the skin side down into the skillet, cooking until well seared about 3 minutes. Season the upright meat of the fish with salt and pepper. Transfer the skillet to the oven to finish cooking, about 4 minutes to medium rare, depending on the thickness of the filets.

While the salmon is in the oven, in a large skillet over high heat, add 1 tablespoon of olive oil and the shallots, cooking for 1 minute. Add the 4 bunches of watercress, cooking to wilt and reduce liquids to coat. Season well with salt and pepper. Divide and position the wilted watercress in the center warm coupe style plates.

As the salmon finishes, carefully remove the hot skillet from the oven. Immediately position the salmon filets, skin side atop the wilted watercress. Drizzle the over the salmon. In a medium bowl combine the watercress springs and a few drops of the olive oil to lightly coat, seasoning lightly with salt and pepper. Position the springs atop the salmon filets. Serve immediately of course with a glass of Elk Cove Pinot Gris.

WATERCRESS-PINOT GRIS SAUCE
Makes 4 servings
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cup sliced shallots
1 cup Elk Cove Pinot Gris or dry Sauvignon Blanc white wine
1 cup heavy cream
sea salt to taste
freshly ground white pepper to taste
1 bunch fresh watercress, the lower third of stems removed

In a medium-size saucepan, melt the butter over high heat. Add the shallots and sauté until tender, about 3 minutes. Add the Chardonnay and cook until reduced by half, about 8 minutes. Add the cream and cook until thickened to coat the back of a spoon, about 8 minutes. Remove from the heat and adjust the seasoning with salt and
pepper as necessary.

When ready to serve, reheat the sauce to a short boil. Transfer to a blender adding the watercress. Place the lid on the blender and leave the vent open. For safety place a kitchen towel over the top of the open vent blender top to prevent any hot liquid from splashing out while letting the hot air and steam from the sauce to escape. Puree on high speed until smooth. Serve immediately to maintain the bright color and flavor of the sauce.

Jimmy Schmidt

TODAY’S LESSON: The celebration of St. Patrick’s Day and the “wearing of the green” is just around the corner! St. Patrick’s Day celebrates the heritage of Ireland with shamrocks, green beer, and traditional Irish foods like corned beef and cabbage, soda bread, and Irish stew. To commemorate St. Pat’s Day this year, we will modernize the traditional corned beef by substituting super silky short ribs for the best-corned beef ever!

WHERE DOES CORNED BEEF COME FROM? The term “corned beef” originated during the time Anglo-Saxon tribes traversed Britain. With long sojourns and short stops a way of life for these tribes, it was necessary to find a way to have the mainstays of their diets readily available. Their meat was cured to prolong it’s “life” and prevent spoilage. The process of curing was done in rock salt that was crushed to the size of wheat kernels, commonly called”corns”. Therefore, the name “corned” stuck hard to this preparation. This method as a curative for meats and fish was displaced by the onset of refrigeration.

WHERE DOES CORNED BEEF COME FROM? Corned beef traditionally utilizes the brisket or breast of the cow, a cut composed of two overlying muscles called the brisket top point and lower flat. Connective tissue runs between the muscles and needs to be cooked to tenderize or removed prior to serving.  Read more on Brisket on FoodShed Exchange.

The Top Point of the brisket point makes up 30% of the brisket. The point is a lump of meat that partially overlaps one end of the flat. It is quite fatty on its surface as well as within the meat. It also contains a lot of connective tissue between the meat fibers. It can be sliced, but its loose texture after cooking makes it a better choice for chopped brisket sandwiches or burnt ends.

The Lower Flat of the brisket accounts for 70% of the brisket. The flat is just that: Sort of a flat, rectangular piece of meat that makes up the majority of the whole brisket. This is the portion that is sliced across the grain and served on a plate or in a sandwich. You’ve probably seen the flat in the meat case at the supermarket, separated from the point and with most fat removed, ready for braising in the oven.

WHERE DO SHORT RIBS COME FROM?
The short ribs, on the other hand, are a little higher up on the cow and more
tender. Short ribs are a “created” cut of beef from the primal chuck and short plate
of the cow, typically, not consisting of more than five ribs. The “ribs” are
cut 2 to 3 inches long and are layered with fat, meat and bone. My favorite is the chuck short ribs which are the lower muscle area of the rib structure, specifically 5 ribs in the Chuck area. They have good marbling with a thinner fat cap than the short plate short ribs.

Read more on Chuck Short Ribs on FoodShed Exchange…

Read more on Short Plate Short Ribs on FoodShed Exchange…

CUT THE SHORT RIBS:  The typical short rib cut with the bone can be a huge 8 to 12-ounce portion, often tied to keep intact in one piece.  A Flacken cut short rib is cut against the length of the bone as shown here.  Cut the short ribs again between the bone to produce sections of meat with one bone for easier handling and serving.

CURING THE SHORT RIBS INTO CORNED BEEF: The traditional curing procedure takes at least a week up to a month in brine to turn the simple beef breast into corned beef. We will shortcut that process with a short marinade followed by spicing the braising liquids.

WHAT MAKES CORNED BEEF KEEP ITS RED COLOR?  The secret to the “corned beef color” is the curing salt which is used to retard bacterial growth during the curing time and also set the color of the meat or sausage.  There are a couple of primary curing salts that are colored pink to prevent confusion with regular salts:

Pink curing salt #1(Prague Powder #1) which contains 6.25% sodium nitrite and 93.75% table salt, used for meats that require short cures and quickly consumed.

Pink curing salt #2 (Prague Powder #2) which contains 6.25% sodium nitrite, 4% sodium nitrate, and 89.75% table salt, used for meats and sausages with longer curing time allowing the nitrates to break down to nitrites and eventually dissipate.

For the “natural” approach use celery juice powder which contains vegetable-based nitrites.

SKIP THE NITRATES-BETTER FOR YOUR HEALTH:  Since we are not brining over time we really don’t need the curing salts.  I prefer the color and flavor of sweet paprika in the spice mix to enhance the color.

TIME TO COOK – WHAT EXACTLY IS BRAISING?  Braising is a slower cooking method that allows the full flavor of the meat to come through by utilizing “wet” heat. Similar to boiling, braising allows the process of wet cooking to be accomplished at lower temperatures in the oven rather than on top of the stove. The cooking does, however, begin on top of the stove by searing the seasoned meat over high heat in a large skillet to develop the fullest flavor. Once seared on all sides, stock and vegetables, if desired, are added to the skillet, it is covered with aluminum foil and placed in the oven to cook at the low temperature until ready to serve.

ADVANTAGES: The longer cooking time allows the connective tissue and fat in the short ribs to break down resulting in tender meat that is rich in flavor but not necessarily rich in fat meat.

MARINADING THE SHORTRIBS: In a medium saucepan combine the water, salt, sugar, and spices, then bring to a boil. Remove the brine from the heat and allow to cool to room temperature. Place the short ribs in a properly sized baking dish, cover with the marinade, wrap and refrigerate overnight.

BROWNING YOUR SHORT RIBS: To start the braising, brown the entire seasoned surface of the meat on top of the stove in a large skillet over high heat. This flavor development by searing is crucial as the cooking temperature during braising never exceeds 212 degrees F.

COVER WITH SEASONED LIQUIDS: Although corned beef uses just water seasoned with spices, the short ribs may be enriched with a good stock. Use the spices of crushed red pepper, peppercorns, allspice, mustard seed, caraway, and bay leaves to season the liquids along with a little salt.

IT MUST BOIL! Bring the meat, vegetables, and stock to a full boil before covering the surface of the liquid with aluminum foil and placing in the oven. This starts the cooking process quickly and allows the cooking to continue without a total heating of the skillet and its contents as it enters the oven.

TRICKS OF THE TRADE: Covering the surface of the braising liquid with aluminum foil(dull side up) prevents the contents of the skillet from boiling and will result in more tender meat.

THE COOKING BEGINS: Braising takes time, anywhere from 1-1/2 to 2 hours, from the point at which the boiling on top of the stove begins until tender. You can best test for doneness by inserting a skewer into the meat. It is done if, when removed, it meets no resistance.

ONCE ITS DONE: It is important to allow the meat to rest and cool in the stock until just warm. Patience on your part and following this step will produce the moistest and tender results. To serve, return the skillet to the heat.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE: You have to try Corned Beef Short Ribs to celebrate your St. Patrick’s Day.

CORNED BEEF SHORT RIBS
Makes 4 servings

The corned beef brine
2 quarts cold water
1 cup coarse sea salt
1 cup brown sugar
4 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
4 tablespoons whole allspice
1/4 cup whole mustard seeds
1/4 cup caraway seeds

1/4 cup sweet paprika

4 bay leaves
4 whole cloves

4 beef short ribs, tied lengthwise, about 8 ounces each Or flanken cut into 4-ounce sections as shown above

The braising process
4 tablespoons unsalted butter or olive oil
1 medium-size onion, diced
4 cups Stock or water
salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup prepared white horseradish
1/4 cup chopped parsley

4 cups green cabbage, shredded fine
4 sprigs fresh parsley for garnish

In a large pot combine the water, salt, sugar and half of the spices. Bring to a boil over high heat, then turn off and allow to cool to room temperature. Place the short ribs in a properly sized baking dish and cover with the marinade. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F.
In a large ovenproof skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over high heat. Add the short ribs and brown on all sides. Transfer to a warm plate and set aside. Add the onions and saute until browned, about 5 minutes. Return the short ribs to the skillet, the stock, and the remaining spices. Bring to a boil. Add the salt and pepper to taste. Float a sheet of aluminum foil, dull side
down, on the surface of the stock. Cover the skillet with a lid, place on the lower rack of the oven, and cook until tender, about 2 hours. The short ribs are done when a skewer inserted into the thickest section of the meat can be removed without resistance; don’t be afraid to continue cooking until they become this tender.
Remove 1 1/2 cups of the stock to a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over high heat and cook until it is thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 6 minutes. Add the horseradish and parsley, then transfer to a blender. Puree until smooth, about 30 seconds. Adjust the salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, in a large nonstick skillet heat the remaining butter.  Add the cabbage cooking while tossing until wilted and tender, about 5 minutes.  season generously with salt and pepper.  Divide and mound the cabbage to the center of your large serving coupe bowls.  Transfer the short ribs to atop the cabbage. Remove the string. Spoon the. horseradish sauce over, garnish with parsley sprigs and serve.

WHAT EXACTLY IS CELERY ROOT?  A member of the parsley family, celery root, celeriac or knob celery is the large spherical bulb base or taproot of a specific celery variety which is grown for this root rather than the typical green stalk. It tastes hauntingly like rich sweet celery without the acidic crunch.  The specific celeriac variety is Apium graveoliens var. rapaceum which takes 100-120 days to mature and can be grown in USDA zones 8 and 9.  Read more about Gardening Know How: Common Varieties Of Celery: Different Kinds Of Celery Plants

WHERE DOES CELERY ROOT COME FROM?  Wild celery and celery root have been traced to the  Mediterranean basin, consumed by early Egyptians and Greeks, first cultivated 3000 years ago.  It favors cool moist growing conditions with well-draining soil.The best culinary celeriac varieties are Brilliant, Giant Prague, Mentor, President, and Diamanté.

California followed by Michigan produce the most Pascal (green) variety of Celery, grown specifically for the stalks (Apium graveolens L. var. dulce) not the root.  Leaf Celery (Apium graveolens var. secalinum) is grown for its value as leaf herb and seeds.

HEALTH ADVANTAGES: Celeriac is high in dietary fiber and protein.  Celery root is rich in calcium, iron, panaxydiol, magnesium, manganese, Sodium, zinc, phosphorous and potassium, significant vitamin K, thiamine-B1, riboflavin-B2, niacin-B3, pantothenic acid-B5, B6 and C.  It has a low 42 calories in 100 grams of the root and contains only  about 5% starch by weight, very low compared to other root vegetables.  It also contains poly-acetylene anti-oxidants such as falcarinol, panaxadiol, and methyl-falcarindiol.

SELECT YOUR CELERY ROOT: Celery root is pretty gnarly looking with a knobby and often hairy surface.   Select celery root that is firm and heavy with no bruised brown soft spots.  Keep cool until ready to cook.

ROOT CELLAR STORES WELL FOR THE WINTER!  Celeriac stores well at 32 to 40 degrees F for up to 8 months.  Brush away all the fine stems from the root to prevent internal rot.  Fresh well stored celeriac will be most pronounced with earthy, mineral celery flavor and a firm solid texture.

HOW DO YOU PREPARE TO EAT RAW ?  Wash, peeling and trimming to remove the tougher fiberous exterior.  The celeriac can then be grated or hand cut into julienne for preparing as an elegant rich salad or condiment.

THE CORE OF JUICING RAW:   Celeriac is a great core for juicing with its dietary fiber and protein, along with essential vitamins and minerals.  It contributes a unique silky texture which compliments all you favorite juicing flavors.  Juicers worship celeriac as their secret winter ingredient for taste and health benefits.

HOW DO YOU COOK?  I prefer to cook the entire root with the skin on to preserve the rich flavor, allowing to cool enough to handle then trim away the gnarly skin.  The cooked root can be puréed similar to mashed potatoes, sliced thin to become “mock pasta” to form the ravioli exterior and lasagna sheets.

Celeriac is the foundation of incredible soups, cooking with your complimenting vegetables then blended into a smooth, silky, and earthy soul warmer.  Diced celeriac elevates traditional potatoe studded shellfish chowders.  Celeriac can go anywhere a potato goes with better flavor and nutrition.

Baked winter gratins of celeriac and earthy root vegetables are always a menu winner.  Slice and layer the celeriac raw or blanched with friendly roots, slathered with stock, cream and cheese then baked until tender and golden.

WHEN A RISOTTO IS NOT MADE WITH RICE?  To transform celeriac in “mock rice” for risotto, first slice the trimmed, raw root into thin slices then patiently cut into the size of “grains of rice”, matching thickness, length and width.  The celeriac “rice” is cooked in salted boiling water for a minute, to tenderize to al dente, drained and immediately combined with a silky puree of celeriac trimmings to complete the “creamy” risotto texture.  Its so good it has fooled the best palates that it is RICE risotto.

CRISPY IS FUN TOO!  Cut the celeriac into fine julienne then simply fry in batches in olive oil for a crunchy treat.  Thicker cuts are best blanched to tenderize then coated with a starch to create the crisp exterior.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE:  My famous Celeriac Risotto will fool you, and the artistic knife work to produce grains of celeriac will soothe your soul or drive your taste buds crazy!

CELERIAC RISOTTO (BASE)
Makes 2 Appetizer Servings

Prep time 30 minutes – Cook Time 15 minutes

1 large celeriac, peeled

olive oil for frying

Sea Salt

4 tablespoons unsalted Butter

Freshly ground white pepper

Stock or White Wine as necessary (stock to match garnish flavors)

2 tablespoons celeriac leaves or chives, finely cut

4 tablespoons Reggiano Parmigiano

Garnish vegetables or proteins

Prepare the Celeriac: On a mechanical or mandolin slicer cut the celeriac into slices the thickness of a grain of rice, reserving 4 of the end slices for crisped garnish.
* With a sharp knife artistically cut the slices into a julienne the width of a grain of rice. Finally cut the julienne into the length of a grain of rice to yield celeriac “mock rice grains”.
* Cut the reserved 4 slices into long fine julienne to fry crisp.
* Use all the trimming scrap for the puree.

Prepare the crisp: In a medium saucepan, heat the olive oil to 375 degrees F. Add the fine julienned celeriac, stirring to cook evenly until crisp and light brown about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon retrieve the celeriac from the oil with a slotted spoon to a paper towel lined plate to drain. Season generously with sea salt.

Prepare the puree: In a medium pot of boiling salted water cook the celeriac trimming until tender about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a fine sieve to drain well. Transfer to a food processor, blending while adding 2 tablespoons butter and a little cooking liquid to achieve a “creamy” texture. season generously with sea salt and pepper. Reserve warm.

Prepare the celeriac risotto and serve: In a large non stick skillet over medium heat start to melt the remaining butter. In a medium pot of boiling salted water, cook the celeriac “mock rice grains” for 1 to 1-1/2 minutes, transferring immediately to a fine sieve to drain for 10 seconds. Transfer to the buttered skillet, add the celeriac puree and combine well. season with sea salt and pepper. Adjust to a “creamy” texture as necessary with a splash of stock or white wine. remove from the heat mixing in the celeriac leaves or chives and half of the cheese.

Spoon the risotto into warm coupe bowls. Top with any vegetable or protein garnishes. Sprinkle with remaining cheese, top with the crispy celeriac and serve.

Jimmy Schmidt ©

TODAY’S LESSON: Winter salads are rich while being refreshing. Leafy greens that grow during these cool temperatures are low in carbs while delivering some protein and fiber to your diet. Today we will add the winter greens to the king of citrus, the blood orange, for a salad to long winter for.
WHAT EXACTLY IS A BLOOD ORANGE AND WHERE DOES IT COME FROM? A blood orange is produced by just a few varieties of the orange family. It is thought to have originated in China and been cultivated in Europe, specifically Italy and Spain, as well as Northern Africa in Algeria, Morocco, and Tunisia. They have been grafted onto existing rootstock in California and have increased in volume every year. This orange is called a blood orange for the intense maroon color and deep almost raspberry scented flavor.
WHAT ARE THE VARIETIES? The most important varieties of blood oranges are:

* “Moro” is one of the favorites and the largest in production coming out of California into your supermarkets. It originates from the Sanguinello Moscato variety grown extensively in Italy. The fruit is deep maroon in color, round to oval in shape and varies in skin color from pure orange to deep red blush. They are juicy with higher acid flavor in December falling to the rich fruit flavor by February. They are usually seedless but a few seeds show up now and then.

* “Tarocco” is the largest produced variety grown in Italy but with a wider variation in flesh color from the red blushed-orange to deeper red with more like strawberry flavor tones. They are sweet with a high acid content in perfect balance for a terrific flavor.

* “Sanguinelli” is the largest variety produced in Spain with a red exterior and streaked pale red interior on maturity with more like strawberry to pineapple flavor tones. It is very juicy, sweet with low acid and few if any seeds.

WHY DO THEY TASTE SO GOOD? Blood oranges are generally lower in acid than their orange-fleshed cousins. These flavors taste more red and softer than orange thus the different blood oranges are compared more towards the red fruit of raspberries and strawberries.
ADVANTAGES: Like other citrus fruit they are high in Vitamin C, low in sodium and about 65 calories per fruit.
CHOOSE YOUR BLOOD: Select your blood oranges by the heavier weight and fragrant smell, avoiding bruised or flattened fruit. They are best as fresh as possible and may be stored for a few days in your refrigerator. They are more delicate than standard orange varieties so treat them with care, especially since they are a little more expensive.
We have been buying Moro blood oranges that have a little sticker on them that says; Sunkist(TM) Moro #4381. These are the most readily available in the market so far this year.

TRY YOUR TECHNIQUE: Combine the best of the season’s bounty with CRAB, BLOOD ORANGE, AND ENDIVE SALAD.

LUMP CRAB, BLOOD ORANGE, AND ENDIVE SALAD
Makes 4 servings of about 12 grams carbohydrates,
25 grams protein and 4 grams fiber each

Prep Time 15 minutes – Serve Time 5 minutes
6 Moro blood oranges, abundant 1 cup in segments (C=32g)(P=2g)(F=6g)
1/4 cup red wine vinegar (C=0g)
1/4 cup blood orange juice from collected from segments above
1/4 cup Avocado Oil (c=0g)
Sea salt (C=0g)
a generous dose of freshly ground black pepper (C=.8g)
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives (C=.4g)
2 bunches of watercress, the lower third of coarse stems removed
(C=2g)(P=4g)(F=4g)
1/4 cup scallion greens, cleaned and cut on the bias (C=3.7g)(p=.9g)(F=1.3g)
4 small to medium Belgian Endives, cut into fine julienne
(C=8.4g)(P=2g)(F=5.2g)
1 pound cleaned jumbo lump crab meat (C=0g)(P=92g)

Prepare the oranges by cutting the rind off both ends. Place one end of the orange down on your cutting board. With a shape slicing knife, cut the skin away from the fruit interior in an arch about 1 to 1-1/2 inches wide, starting at the top to the bottom. Repeat this cut on the opposite side of the orange. Repeat these cuts on opposite sides until all the skin has been cut away. Cut the segments free from the inner membranes. Squeeze any of the membranes to release the juice into a bowl to use in the dressing.

In a blender, combine the vinegar, orange juice and Carotino oil. Adjust the seasonings as necessary with salt and a generous dose of black pepper to your taste. Add half of the chives and reserve at room temperature.

Assemble the salad: Divide the watercress and arrange around the edges of the serving plates. In a medium bowl combine the orange segments, scallions, Belgian endive and crab meat. Add the dressing and toss. Adjust seasoning as necessary with salt and pepper. Divide and mound the salad mixture into the center of the serving plates. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the watercress. Sprinkle with the remaining chives and serve.

COOKING NOTE I: (C=0g)(P=0g)(F=0g)indicates the total carbohydrates, total protein & total fiber in grams for the ingredient listed.
© Jimmy Schmidt

What exactly is chocolate? Chocolate comes from the Cocoa tree, which is a tropical evergreen that thrives 20 degrees north and south of the equator. There are three main varietals of cocoa trees, the Criollo which is delicious, rare and hard to grow, the Forastero, most common and versatile to grow and Trinitario, a natural hybrid from cross-pollination.

Where did chocolate originate from? Cocoa has been identified as a beverage from 2000 B.C., in a village of the Ulua Valley of Honduras. From 200 to 900 AD, cocoa was a main agricultural product of the Mayan civilization, used as currency, gifts, in religious ceremonies, and as medical treatments for over 150 ailments. The Cocoa tree was named by the Mayan-Aztek as Theobroma cocoa meaning “cocoa, food of the gods”. Not only were the fruit pods used for chocolate but the bark, flowers, wood pulp and even leaves were utilized.

How did chocolate get from the jungle to our table? Cocoa traveled to Spain and Europe in 1505 growing in demand for its medicinal properties through the 18th century. Popularity as a food was supported by the industrial age of manufacturing. Van Houten, a Dutch chemist in 1815, added alkaline salts which reduced the bitterness and a pressing procedure to remove half the cocoa butter making Dutch cocoa more consistent and affordable to the masses. Fry in 1847 is credited with adding back the melted cocoa butter thus making the chocolate moldable into bars. In 1875 Peter invented milk chocolate using Nestle’s new powdered milk. The smooth chocolate texture we know today was created by the invention of conching by Lindt. Hersey came onto the chocolate scene in 1893 with milk chocolates for the masses.

Is chocolate truly a “food of the gods” in healthy attributes? Dark Chocolate is rich in polyphenol flavonoids, more than red wine, which is beneficial to your health.

How is chocolate made? The cocoa pods are harvested by hand mainly in May and December. The cocoa pods are broken open to release the beans and piled together in heap or into a large wooden box to allow the micro-organisms to develop and initiate the fermentation of the sugar-rich pulp surrounding the beans.

During the process, the beans are stirred to encourage even fermentation and to allow excess liquids to drain away. This takes up to three days for Criollo beans and up to six days for Forastero beans, of course depending on temperature, moisture, and the micro bugs. This fermentation ultimately breaks down the bean cell wall, releasing complex chemical changes, enzymatic reactions and the breakdown of the proteins into amino acids, resulting in the chocolate flavor, color, and polyphenol flavonoid development. The fermentation of cocoa is just as important in chocolate as the fermentation process is to convert grape juice into fine wine. After fermentation, the beans continue to oxidize while being dried in the sun.

The fermented beans are roasted, shells separated, inner nibs ground then pressed to releases the cocoa butter. The blend of sugar, cocoa liquor, and butter are conched with powerful rollers to grind the particle size down to a silky smoothness.

The grades or types of chocolate based on proportions of ingredients:
Chocolate Chart

Chocolate                    Sugar           Chocolate         Added Cocoa
Type                                                  Liquor                Butter

Sweet                             70%.                15%.                   15%

Bittersweet                    50%                 35%.                   15%

Extra Bittersweet         35%.                 50%.                   15%

Bitter                               0%                   95%                     5%

Amazing insect facts in chocolate:

Midges, tiny flies about the size as a speck of dust, are responsible for pollinating the cocoa flowers to produce the fruit. these midges have a big unfinished job as the pollinated flowers are 1 in 20!
The Drosophila melanogaster or vinegar-fly is credited with the introduction of important micro-organisms and yeasts into the cocoa fermentation process.

CHOCOLATE TASTING

Chocolate tasting has now come of age, inspired by the elaborate descriptions used to describe the flavors in a wine. This new tasting ritual opens the exploration of the depth and richness of the chocolate taste. Chocolate contains over 20,000 identifiable chemical compounds which makes it one of the most complex tasting foods. A new sensory language organized in a chocolate flavor wheel allows the exploration of the intricate chocolate flavors with a vocabulary to express the taste nuances.

The Chocolate Sensory Wheel has 87 descriptors covering flavor, texture, and aroma of chocolate. The tasting utilizes the five senses of sight, touch, hearing, smell and finally taste.

This new chocolate sensory language is based on a new book “Hidden Persuaders in Cocoa and Chocolate” written by the scientists from Barry Callebaut and Givaudan.

Getting hungry…..this cake is easy and perfect for your Valentine!

Pressed Chocolate Cake – Rich Chocolate Cake without flour getting in the way

What no flour? The flourless cake is made simply with chocolate, butter, eggs, sugar, and cocoa powder. The cake is held together by the protein structure of the eggs, with just a little help from the chocolate’s starches.
What makes it rise? The cake will rise when baked because of the enlarging of the air pockets formed in the mixing. Once the cake is removed from the oven, it will fall if left to its own devices, or it may be pressed to remove the air evenly to make the silkiest texture.

Pressed Dark Chocolate Cake

Makes 8 to 10 servings

7 ounces extra-bittersweet Chocolate such as Guittard Nocturn
14 tablespoons unsalted butter (1-3/4 sticks)
5 eggs, separated
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
¾ cup turbinado sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
Pinch salt
Ice Cream as you may enjoy
Salted Chocolate Sauce

Position rack in lower third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. Butter 10 inch diameter springform pan with 3 inch high sides. Melt chocolate and butter in double boiler over gently simmering water; stir until smooth. Transfer to a medium bowl. Whisk in egg yolks and vanilla extract. Add sugar; sift in cocoa powder and whisk to blend.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites with salt to soft peaks. Fold ½ into the chocolate mixture to lighten. Gently fold in the remaining whites. Pour into the prepared pan. Bake until the sides are set but the center is still moist about 30 minutes.

Set cake on rack. Loosen springform pan sides but do not remove. Top the cake with plate pressing down gently to deflate the cake, then remove plate and springform pan sides.

To serve cut the cake into wedges. Top with ice cream and sauce.

Jimmy Schmidt