WHAT IS IT?
Foie gras, which means “fat liver” in French, is the enlarged liver of a waterfowl, traditionally a duck (commonly the moulard breed in this country, a cross of the pekin and the muscovy) or goose (found mostly in France), that has been fattened by a months-long process of over-feeding called gavage.
The result is a mild, creamy liver of up to two pounds or more. The method of feeding foie gras ducks has sparked controversy in this country, with some maintaining that gavage amounts to animal cruelty. The industry aggressively disputes this. For more understanding of the process, go the website of Hudson Valley Foie Gras which carries extensive videos of the process.
WHERE DID THIS IDEA COME FROM?
In a way, foie gras production imitates nature. Before they migrate, waterfowl overeat, bulking up to store fuel for long flights. When these birds were hunted and eaten many hundreds of years ago, the livers were found to be exceptionally delicious. So when the birds became domesticated, farmers mimicked the process by overfeeding them.
WHERE ARE FOIE GRAS DUCKS RAISED?
Mostly the US, primarily in New York State’s Hudson Valley, and, of course, France. Canada exports some fresh foie gras, mainly to the US and Mexico. Israel used to produce foie gras but ran up against a ban promoted by animal rights activists, the one entity producing it moved to Bulgaria. Other countries that make fresh foie gras, albeit on a small level and not exported to the US, are Bulgaria Hungary, Poland and China.
IS IT LEGAL TO SELL AND SERVE FOIE GRAS IN ALL 50 STATES?
Yes. In 2004 California lawmakers passed a groundbreaking ban on foie gras, maintaining it was inhumane to force-feed poultry. That remained in effect until January of 2015, when U.S. District Court overturned it—not on the feeding issue, but rather on the grounds such a regulatory ban is the sole domain of the federal government.
HOW ARE FOIE GRAS DUCKS RAISED?
Unlike overcrowded and sometimes caged commercial chickens, the ducks spend much of their time in large open barnlike structures. For the first nine weeks they undergo an “athlete regimen,” going from one end of the barn for food, to the other for water, and back again, all day to build leg muscles. This is usually followed by about two-and-a-half weeks of gavage (overfeeding). They are fed grain, often corn, through a tube placed in their throat.
IS OVER-FEEDING DUCKS (GAVAGE) FOR FOIE GRAS CRUEL?
We are not taking sides on the contentious issue of gavage, the practice of overfeeding ducks to enlarge their livers. We are just presenting the facts. You can learn everything you need to know about foie gras, from chicks to finished product, by visiting the website www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com. Watch the video and make up your own mind.
Here is a defense of the practice, also posted on the Hudson Valley Foie Gras website.
According to one Dr. Lawrence W. Bartholf, past president of the New York Veterinary Medical Association, the physiology of ducks makes them suitable to gavage without suffering. Here are some of his points:
- Unlike that of mammals, the throat of water fowl is lined with tissue similar to the palm of our hand, permitting them to eat live, wriggling fish, spines and all, without harm, or to accept the feeding tube.
- Ducks are adapted to store food in a sac at the base of throat to take advantage of food when they find it in nature. The capacity of the feed sac is two times greater than the maximum amount ever given in feeding.
- The wind pipe of waterfowl opens at the center of the tongue, not in the throat, so ducks have no need of a protective gag reflex and can breathe normally during feeding.
- Waterfowl are adapted to store fat in the liver when abundant food is available. The stored energy is especially valuable during times of need, such as migration.
- In mammals, fat storage in the liver indicates a problem, in waterfowl it is a normal and reversible process. The reaction of the ducks to hand feeding is best illustrated by their ease with the caretakers. Ducks normally maintain a “flight zone”: distance from people. In feeding, the “flight zone” or avoidance of the caretakers is very small. We believe this is a very visible indication that the feeding process is not harmful.
HOW IS IT GRADED?
Foie is USDA graded on an alphabetical scale:
A – These are the largest, smooth and firm to the touch. They should be shiny, evenly textured and with a consistent pinkish-beige color with no blemishing. These are the livers that you find in fine restaurants.
B – This grading is more a matter of cosmetics than quality. It may be a bit softer, and with more visible veins. It is usually used to make terrines and mousses.
C – A step down from B in most respects, this might be used to flavor and thicken sauces.
HOW IS IT SOLD?
Foie gras can be sold fresh or frozen (the latter costs some 10 to 15 percent less). It is also cut into portions, frozen, and shipped in vacuum packages Cooked (baked, steamed, poached, and sous vide), it is commonly sold as a terrine or a mousse, often studded with black truffles. Frozen foie gras in vacuum package has a shelf life of about a year. A vacuum-sealed fresh foie gras terrine is good for about a month (somewhat depends on the degree of cooking).
WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A TERRINE AND A MOUSSE OF FOIE GRAS?
Terrine of foie gras is the whole liver, deveined, cleaned and cooked. It is traditionally seasoned with salt, pepper and sweet wine, like Sauternes, or other alcohol. Mousse of foie gras is a seasoned puree, often flavored with black truffles. It is less expensive than a terrine because water or wine is part of the formula. Check the labels when buying foie gras mousse because some producers add chicken or even pork.
WHAT IS A TORCHON OF FOIE GRAS?
Torchon refers to a technique of preparing raw foie gras in which it is rolled into a cylinder, wrapped in a thin cloth (torchon is the French word for kitchen towel) or some sort of plastic wrap, and poached in stock or another liquid. The result is not much different than that of a terrine of foie gras, which gets its name from the cooking vessel. The torchon can take up to several days to poach, removed periodically to rest. It is refrigerated for a couple of days before being eaten cold.
WHAT DO I SERVE ALONG WITH TERRINE OR TORCHON OF FOIE GRAS?
In France, foie gras is typically served with thin slices of country bread or toasted brioche. Sometimes it is paired it with a fruit jam. For purists, all it needs is a sprinkling with coarse fleur de sel. (See serving and cooking tips below.)
WHY DOES IT TASTE SO GOOD?
Aficionados of this rarified delicacy swoon over its rich, faintly livery flavor and creamy texture. Both the cold terrine and the crisply sautéed fresh version meld beautifully with a range of sweet and tart sauces (See serving and cooking tips below.) It can be ethereal when paired with appropriate wines (See next week’s issue of WHAT TO EAT TODAY for wine suggestions).
CAN YOU MICROWAVE FOIE GRAS?
Yes. Devein the liver (See instructions and video below) Season with salt and pepper and place in a small baking dish to fit the microwave; sprinkle with the wine of your choice. Cover with plastic wrap and microwave for about 2 minutes at high setting. The timing may vary depending on the size of the liver, so cook for 1 minute and then in 20 seconds increments. The foie gras is cooked when the tip of a small knife inserted in the center comes out warm. Transfer the liver to a clean terrine and proceed as in a classic terrine.
STEAM
Another method is to mold the liver into a cylinder and wrap in several layers of plastic wrap, and steam over boiling water for 13 to 15 minutes. Let cool and refrigerate for 3 days before serving. (This is essentially the torchon method)
See Next Week’s Issue of “WHAT TO EAT TODAY” for an Uncommon Guide to Foie Gras and Wine Pairings
WHAT SHOULD I NOT DRINK WITH FOIE GRAS?
Milk. Energy Drinks. Egg Nog. Tab. Gin Martinis (vodka acceptable if you must). Iced Coffee.
HOW TO MAKE A TERRINE OF FOIE GRAS
First, devein the liver:
- Season the entire liver liberally with salt and pepper and tuck all of it firmly into a terrine mold. (Add the larger lobe first, smooth side down, then any loose pieces). Place the smaller lobe over the top and press lightly to disperse the air in between the layers. Add about 2/3 cup of wine or Armagnac. Cover with the terrine lid or plastic wrap.
- Create a bain marie by layering a kitchen towel or a thick layer of paper towel at the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the terrine. Place the terrine on top and fill half way with boiling water.
- Cook in a 200-degree oven for about 1 hour or until the internal temperature reaches 120 degrees, or the tip of a small knife inserted in the center comes out warm.
- Remove terrine from the water bath and place in a shallow dish. Cut a piece of cardboard slightly smaller than the mold and wrap the cardboard in several layers of plastic wrap. Place the cardboard atop the liver and weigh it down with some cans or jars. When the terrine is cold and the liver is entirely covered with fat, remove it, seal with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 3 days before serving. It can be stored for up to 10 days.
HOW TO PREPARE FRESH FOIE GRAS
Here is a great video that demonstrates how to sear fresh foie gras, from the gourmet meats and poultry supplier of D’Artagnan.
For this recipe, you will need 4 slices of foie gras, each about ¾ inch thick (2 ounces each).
- First prepare your sauce (See some suggestions below) and keep it warm while you cook the foie gras.
- Lightly score the slices of foie gras on both sides, then season liberally with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Sear in a very hot, dry skillet for about 30 seconds on each side until nicely browned but not blackened. Before serving, sprinkle a pinch of coarse salt over each slice.
Tip: Foie gras, because of its rich composition, requires heavier salting than meat.
CHECKING IN WITH ANNE DE RAVEL
Anne de Ravel is a France-based professional cook and journalist, and former television producer and food consultant for The New York Times Magazine. She is the co-author of the book Foie Gras, Magret, and Other Good Food from Gascony (with André Daguin). She now resides in her native Languedoc, where she runs a gastro-tourism company called Saveur Languedoc. Her guided tours introduce visitors to the history, culture, cuisine and wines of the region (including cooking classes that, among other things, teach students how to prepare foie gras).
While foie gras is served at special occasions throughout France, it is not restricted to the holidays. Any festive moment calls for a slice of foie gras either in terrine form or fresh. Every December I look forward to visiting the local marché au gras, a seasonal farmers’ market dedicated to fatted ducks and geese. Every holiday for as long as I can remember my family has gathered at my aunt’s house for terrine of foie gras with Champagne—it doesn’t get merrier than that.
When I host American visitors during my week long Saveur Languedoc’s cooking and wine program, I sometimes teach the class how to make foie gras terrine from start to finish, flavored with a local sweet wine, St. Jeande Minervois. We also cook it raw in both traditional and modern ways. Personally I prefer preparing a terrine the classic way and serve it different chutneys, jams or jellies (figs, apples, pears, wine, quince, etc.)
While it is often enjoyed in its simplest form as a classic terrine seasoned with sweet wine or Armagnac, French cooks are becoming a lot more adventurous with their seasonings for both terrines and fresh. The current trend here is pain d’épices, the French honey-spiced bread every child grows up with, served toasted with foie gras terrine, or tucked underneath a sautéed slice of foie gras.
Bread: For the longest time people thought that the best bread to serve with a terrine was toasted pain de mie or brioche. I think their texture and richness are too similar to the liver; instead, I prefer a toasted slice of good sourdough country bread. And you can find lots of flavored breads, with figs, dried apricots, and such.
In my travels around France I am finding that chefs are becoming a lot more adventuresome, sometimes brilliant, sometimes bizarre, with this most ancient delicacy. Here are some of my favorites:
(See more recipes under “Chefs’ Inside Tips.”)
Foie Gras Terrine
- Before cooking add about 2/3 cup of sweet wine such as Jurançon moelleux, Sauternes, Riesling, or another sweet wine.
- Some cooks use spice blends like the classic quatre épices or Chinese 5 spices, or create their own blends using flavors like ginger, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, etc. The key is to go gently so that it doesn’t over power the delicate flavor of the liver– as a rule of thumb, 2 teaspoons should be plenty.
- Substitute regular ground pepper with some piment d’Espelette, the mild chili pepper from the Basque region of France available in most gourmet stores. This gives foie gras a pleasing kick. You can also add some ground Sichuan pepper blended with white pepper–the citrusy flavors of the Sichuan plays well against the fatty sweetness of the liver.
- Thinly sliced fresh truffles (or canned if you can’t find fresh) can be added to the terrine. Place the first lobe inside the terrine, cover with a layer of truffles, and place the second lobe on top.
- Or, in lieu of truffles, insert thin slices of prosciutto type ham, or cured or smoked duck magret.
- Another good addition is wild mushrooms sautéed in olive oil or duck fat until all the liquid has evaporated. Layer these into the terrine as you would with truffles.
HOT RECIPES
- When cooking slices of fresh foie gras it may be dredged it in flour first but it is not really necessary; a lot of modern chefs here in France coat the slices with breadcrumbs from toasted pain d’epices (honey spiced bread) to give them some crunch and sweetness—sort of Milanese style.
- Serve with a quick sauté of mushrooms (cèpes, oyster mushrooms, etc.)
- Serve them with sliced apples or pears sautéed in butter along with a generous pinch of quatre épices or a spice blend of your choice, until they are caramelized.
- For an exotic twist, make a sauce with a dab of kumquat compote with a hint of star anise, along with caramelized slices of Fuyu persimmon, or some ginger-scented condiments.
- If you don’t want a sweet garnish, try a julienne of wilted endives.
- It is also delicious paired with roasted sea scallops on a bed of soft greens such as lamb’s lettuce, or with a celery root purée.
- Lay the sautéed foie gras over lentils seasoned with hazelnut oil and few drops of balsamic.
- Foie gras is often served poached in a meat broth with root vegetables, in the style of pot au feu.
- I have tasted a wonderful dish of foie gras slices poached along with oysters in a briny broth delicately scented with lemongrass.
Checking in with Ariane Daguin
Ariane Daguin, a Gascony native and indefatigable booster of her gastronomic heritage, is the owner of D’Artagnan, in Union, New Jersey, a fine foods producer and wholesaler high quality organic poultry as well as game, foie gras, pâtés, sausages, smoked delicacies, and wild mushrooms. Her father is the world-renounced chef André Daguin, chef-owner of the Hotel de France, in Auch. Recognized in 1994 by The James Beard Foundation “Who’s Who of Food and Beverage in America,” Ariane also received the “Lifetime Achievement Award” from Bon Appetit Magazine. In September, 2006, she was awarded the French Legion d’Honneur.
“Keep in mind that that the fatty texture of foie gras is best complemented with a balanced sauce containing both sweetness and acidity. Peaches, mango and pineapple all work well. – AD”
- Simple Balsamic Reduction: Combine 1/2 cup Port wine and 1/2 cup balsamic vinegar and reduce by half, or to a syrupy consistency. Place slices of sautéed foie gras over mixed baby field greens, drizzle on the sauce, and serve.
- Sautéed Apples: Heat 3/4 cup fresh, unsweetened applesauce (without cinnamon) with a splash of balsamic vinegar. Peel and slice thinly 1 green apple. Sauté the apple slices in 1 tablespoon each butter and sugar until the sugar caramelizes. Spoon the sauce onto a plate, add slices of sautéed foie gras, and garnish with apple slices.
- Green Grape Sauce: Purée about 20 seedless green grapes with ½ cup sweet vermouth. Strain into a saucepan and boil until reduced to 1/2 cup. Add 2 to 3 tablespoons of duck or veal demi-glace. Taste and adjust the balance of acid and sweet, adding a touch of vinegar for acid, a touch of sugar for sweetness. Drizzle the sauce over slices of sautéed foie gras. You may wish to slice several grapes in half and use them as a garnish for the plate.
OTHER FOIE GRAS TIPS
- A classic way to prepare foie gras is to cook it in a glass jar with salt, pepper, and a splash of Armagnac. Sterilize in water for 20 minutes.
- The way my grandmother served it in fall and winter: Roasted whole foie gras with shallots, capers, quince, and splashes of Armagnac and Jurançon wine.
- Grilled over the fireplace, served with toasted country bread, sliced apples and sea salt.
- Pot-au-feu of foie gras. Poached whole in duck bouillon with vegetables
- Sautéed, served with butter lettuce, persimmon, and a hazelnut vinaigrette
- The way my friend Jean-Louis Palladin taught me: chestnut soup blended with foie gras.
- Peruvian Foie Gras: Fresh foie gras pan seared and served with a deglazing sauce of 2 parts Pisco 100, 1-part coca cola, 1/2-part soy sauce and 1 teaspoon of chili flakes. Reduce to glaze consistency. (Pisco 100 is a South American distilled white spirit made from Quebranta, Torontel, and Italia grapes).
- Slice in 3 ounce medallions of foie gras, and score both sides. Bring to room temperature, season with cracked white pepper and fluer de sel.
- Sear in clarified butter, and serve with caramelized onions cooked with diced pears.
- I love fresh foie gras, cut into a thick slab and cooked quickly in a hot skillet to medium rare, and lately I’ve been serving it with a simple pink lady salsa: small dice of apple and the very inner ribs of celery with lots of chopped celery leaf and a dash of minced serrano chilies – all tossed with a squeeze of lemon olive oil and a splash of Calvados. Perfect for this time of year.
- I like to make torchon of foie gras with Port or Madeira and serve it with pickled raisins, seared pain perdu, and almond butter with fig jam. Also on a brioche bun with grilled apples and calvados.
- I like it cured with salt, pepper and Cognac. Serve it ice cold in 1/2 –inch-thick slices, along with a glass of Amontillado.
- This time of year I think of a terrine flavored with prunes and Armagnac on warm toasted brioche.
With fresh foie gras, there’s nothing more impressive or delicious than a lobe that’s been briefly marinated with some star anise, cardamom, and dusted with sea salt before roasting in a 400-degree oven.
- I like it lightly seasoned with salt and cracked black pepper and a hint of balsamic vinegar then pan seared very quickly over high heat in a bit of extra virgin olive oil, and drizzled with a slightly sweetened cane syrup, red wine and veal stock reduction with a couple of tablespoons of chilled unsalted butter swirled in at the end.
- I’m a traditionalist when it comes to foie… I cure it torchon style with seasonal spices and some type of wine that reflects the season.
- I sear the foie gras and then add to the pan some sherry vinegar for the acid, followed by a fruit juice—I like plum juice. While it is reducing I add some sliced apples.
- I like it with things like quince, not so sweet. Maybe with asparagus. I also love sliced terrine on a baguette, with Sauternes—and a table somewhere warm with somebody fun.
- During the spring and early summer, I like to stuff it into fresh morels and ‘poele’ in butter on low heat.
- I like prepare foie by first giving it a kiss of smoke, (cold smoke for about an hour) then slice, hit it with salt and give it a hard sear.
- Also nice to render foie and use to sous vide the magret or make vinaigrettes.
Su Vide Tronchon of Foie Gras
- Bring Foie Gras to room temperature.
- Lightly devein the foie gras and marinate it in salt, sugar, pink salt and Cognac or Port, or spirit of choice.
- Vacuum pack the marinated foie gras and refrigerate for 24-48 hours.
- Bring a circulator water bath to 140 degrees. Place the bag in the water bath for about 10 minutes, or until it is very soft, approaching liquid.
- Place bag in ice water for about 10 seconds. Pour into a tami placed over a bowl and scrape it through.
- Whisk the foie lightly and taste for seasonings.
- Pour the liquid-textured foie gras into mold of choice, such as terrine or sheet pan lined with Silpat.
- Cool overnight and portion as needed, glazed if you like. It can be cut into slices, rounds, squares or layered.
HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS
A SUSTAINABLE FARM FROM QUACK TO PLATE
The largest foie gras farm in America, raising some 500,000 ducks a year, Hudson Valley Foie Gras, in New York’s Sullivan Country, is a totally sustainable operation. Virtually every element of the process is utilized in a manner that benefits both the animals and the environment. And every part of the duck is exploited: carcasses go into pet food, feathers are used for down, and waste material, including the hay bedding, is distributed to local corn farmers. Much of that corn returns to the farm for duck feed.
“We return nutrients to the soil,” explains farm manager Marcus Henley on a company video. “So we have a circular arrangement. You look around the county up here and it is very green—we work to keep it that way.”
HVFG has grown quickly in recent years, in part due to the overturning of the California foie gras ban in January of 2015. Ironically, the ban in some ways benefitted the industry.
“The whole issue made people more aware of foie gras,” Henley says. “A lot of people are now trying foie gras for the first time, and loving it.”
The farm is admirably transparent concerning the controversial “gavage,” or overfeeding of ducks (See video link above).
Henley adds: “Our transparency is really important to assure the public that foie gras farming is acceptable agriculture. There are vocal, well-funded critics, who, as Zagat pointed out in a film on foie gras, are mostly groups that are against eating any meat, period. The reports from our farm are clearly influencing the public and especially the culinary and dining communities in a positive way.”
La Belle Farm
Located on a 43 acre farm in Sullivan County, NY, this company has been in operation for about 10 years. It currently produces around 150,000 foie gras ducks per year. Most of its processing and distribution is handled by Connecticut-based Bella Bella Gourmet, 203-937-9389 (www.bellabellagourmet.com)
AMERICAN WHOLESALE FOIE GRAS SOURCES
Hudson Valley Foie Gras
80 Brooks Road
Ferndale, NY 12734
Phone: (845) 292-2500
Fax: (845) 292-3009
info@hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com
www.hudsonvalleyfoiegras.com